The engine growls beneath you, and a deep, rhythmic strike echoes across the barren cliffs. You grip the handlebars of a classic Royal Enfield or a sturdy Himalayan, the wind biting at your face as the high-altitude sun beats down. Around you, the landscape stretches endlessly with a dusty, treeless sea of rust-colored canyons and jagged peaks. This is no ordinary ride. This is the Upper Mustang, the last remains of ancient Tibet. This is a forbidden kingdom that time has forgotten.
From Kathmandu to the Edge of Civilization
Our adventure kicks off in Kathmandu, a whirlwind of chaos and color, before winding our way to Pokhara. This is a serene lakeside gem in the lap of the Annapurna range. Here, you can taste the first whispers of paragliding over Phewa Lake or diving into the adrenaline rush of a bungee jump. But this is just the climax. The real journey lies beyond.
Into the Barren Land: The Ancient Salt Trail
From Pokhara, we push north toward Beni. You can find the asphalt fades, and the true test begins. The road is like the snakes alongside the Kali Gandaki River. The deeper we ride, the more the world transforms. The Kali Gandaki Gorge is the deepest on earth and will be above us.
Villages appear like mirages with prayer flags fluttering in the wind and weathered faces that carry the quiet strength of Tibetan Buddhism. Monasteries cling to cliffs, their golden stupas glinting in the sun. In places like Kagbeni and Muktinath, time moves differently. The air is thin, the silence profound.
Lo Manthang: The Walled City of Wonder
The crown jewel of the journey is Lo Manthang, the ancient capital of Upper Mustang. Encircled by crumbling mud walls, this medieval fortress city feels like stepping into a dream. Narrow alleys wind past centuries-old monasteries, where monks chant in low, resonant tones.
The Return: A Ride That Stays With You Forever
The way back is no less thrilling. Each turn reveals a new vista. This hidden valley is a lone hermit’s retreat, a river carving through the rocks. By the time we return to Pokhara, the dust of Mustang is still clinging to our boots. This is not just a motorbike tour. It is a pilgrimage through a land untouched by time, a ride that etches itself into your soul. The discomfort of off-road trails fades, but the memory? That stays forever.
Permits for Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour
Obtaining the necessary permits for an Upper Mustang motorbike tour is crucial in ensuring a smooth and legal journey through this restricted region of Nepal. You are required to secure two main permits: the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and the Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Upper Mustang.
The ACAP can be obtained in Kathmandu or Pokhara, while the RAP must be arranged through a registered trekking or tour agency. Independent travel is not permitted in Upper Mustang. The RAP costs $500 per person for the first 10 days and an additional $50 per day for any extra days beyond that.
Additionally, you must ensure their motorbike has proper documentation, including rental agreements (if applicable) and insurance. It is advisable to carry multiple copies of permits and passports, as checkpoints along the route may require verification.
A Typical Day on the Upper Mustang Motorbike Trek
A typical day on the Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour begins early. You can have a hearty breakfast at a local teahouse or lodge to fuel up for the day’s adventure. After checking the bike’s condition, tires, fuel, and brakes, riders set off on rugged trails that wind through dramatic arid landscapes, towering cliffs, and ancient caves. The ride is challenging, with a mix of rocky paths, river crossings, and occasional sandy stretches, demanding focus and skill.
Around midday, the group stops in a traditional village like Kagbeni, Chele, or Lo Manthang for lunch. You can enjoy the local dishes such as thukpa (noodle soup) or dal bhat (lentils and rice). The break also allows time to explore centuries-old monasteries and chortens. You can interact with the warm Loba people, whose Tibetan-influenced culture remains largely untouched.
In the afternoon, the journey continues, with stops at key highlights like the red cliffs of Dhakmar, sky caves, or the royal palace of Lo Manthang. Before sunset, you will reach the overnight teahouse, where you can relax with a cup of butter tea, share stories, and prepare for another day of exploration. Evenings are often spent under a sky full of stars, surrounded by the mystical aura of the forbidden kingdom.
Each day blends adventure, culture, and breathtaking scenery, making the Upper Mustang motorbike trek an unforgettable experience.
Is an Upper Mustang Motorbike Trek Suitable for You?
An Upper Mustang Motorbike Trek is an incredible adventure, but it is not for everyone. Here is how to know if it’s right for you:
You should have prior off-road or mountain biking experience, as the terrain includes rocky trails, river crossings, and loose gravel.
Beginners may struggle with challenging routes, steep ascents, and unpredictable conditions.
Days are long (5-7 hours of riding), with high-altitude passes (up to 4,200m) and rough roads.
You will need endurance for bumpy rides and adaptability for basic accommodations in remote villages.
US$ 500 per person for 10 days, then US$ 50 per person for each extra day. The additional cost also covers the bike rental, fuel, guide fees, food, and lodging. This trek is more expensive than regular Nepal tours due to restricted access.
If you enjoy remote, rugged landscapes and Tibetan Buddhist culture, Mustang’s ancient caves, monasteries, and fortress-like villages will fascinate you.
If you prefer smooth roads and luxury travel, this isn’t the best fit.
Teahouses offer simple lodging and meals—no hot showers or Wi-Fi in most places.
You must be okay with unpredictable weather (cold nights, dusty trails).
Who Should Avoid It?
Inexperienced riders, those with severe altitude sensitivity, or travelers seeking comfort and convenience.
If you are fit, adventurous, and love raw, off-the-beaten-path experiences, the Upper Mustang motorbike trek could be the journey of a lifetime!
How to prepare for the Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour
Preparing for the Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour requires careful planning to ensure a safe and enjoyable adventure. Start by ensuring you have a valid motorcycle license and prior off-road riding experience, as the terrain in Upper Mustang is rugged and challenging.
Choose a reliable bike, preferably a sturdy off-road or adventure motorcycle, and have it thoroughly serviced before the trip, checking the tires, brakes, engine, and suspension. Pack essential gear, including a helmet, riding jacket, gloves, knee guards, and waterproof clothing, as weather conditions can be unpredictable. Carry a basic repair kit, spare parts, and a first-aid kit for emergencies.
Since Upper Mustang is a restricted area, obtain the necessary permits (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and Upper Mustang Restricted Permit) in advance. Plan your route, fuel stops, and accommodations, as facilities are limited in remote areas. Acclimatize properly to avoid altitude sickness, as the tour reaches elevations above 3,000 meters.
Finally, carry enough cash, as ATMs are scarce, and respect local customs and the fragile environment of this unique Himalayan region.